The waves weren’t even that big. I got caught in no man’s land: too far out to duck-dive under the wave, too close for it to have broken. It broke right on top of me, and I got washing-machined.
I clawed for the surface, desperate for air. My hands hit sand. I’d panicked and swum to the bottom, burning the air I needed to get back up. I came up with my lungs screaming.
The wave wasn’t the problem
My panic was half the problem. If I’d let myself get rag-dolled, I’d have floated up. I float in a wetsuit. And my board was on my leash the whole time.
Everything I needed was already there. Panic hid it.
Panic works the same way on land
Panic tells you this is a disaster. A panic attack can feel like you’re dying. It’s awful, but it isn’t dangerous. Panic always peaks, then passes.
The truth to hold onto: it’s not as bad as it feels.
Stop swimming, grab your leash
Next time panic hits, stop fighting it. Breathe slowly into your belly and tell yourself, “It’s not as bad as it feels.” Then reach for your leash, whatever helps hold you up. Maybe that’s a person you can call.
Worried thoughts are often what turn a wave into a wipeout. My free Thought Tracker helps you catch them and check them. My Find Your Calm anxiety course has a whole section on riding out the worst case.
You’ve got this.
Joel